The All Star Surfactants

Surfactants are cleaning agents that trap dirt and oil on your hair, allowing them to be washed away. Like players on a sports team, each surfactant has different strengths, and they work most effectively when combined.

We formulate finely-tuned blends of surfactants to maximise rich foamy lather, bubbles and gentle cleansing power. 

Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (SCI): This is a fine white powder derived from the fatty acids in coconut oil. This is the primary surfactant, meaning it does most of the heavy lifting when it comes to cleansing. This replaces the much more commonly used SLS (sodium lauryl sulfate). Most supermarket shampoos will have SLS as their primary surfactant because it is cheap to manufacture. However SLS is a fairly harsh cleaner as surfactants go, and can be irritating to the skin, which is why we do not use it. 

Cocamidopropyl Betaine: An extremely mild secondary surfactant, derived from coconut.

Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate (not a sulfate): A gentle secondary surfactant, with excellent foaming capacity. Derived from vegetable sources, including RSPO palm; ECOCERT approved.

Sodium Laurylglucosides Hydroxypropylsulfonate: Do not be put off by the scary sounding name, this is in fact a mild sugar based surfactant. This is a secondary surfactant, the purpose of which is to boost the performance of the primary. 

Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate (Not a sulfate!): Again, do not be put off by the scary name, this is an extremely mild coconut based surfactant. This surfactant will gently cleanse while creating lots of frothy bubbles. 

Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate: Extremely mild coconut based surfactant; this bad boy is the rich-creamy-lather-maker. It’s that secret sauce ingredient that gives our bars that extra something when it comes to building up a really satisfying instant lather.

Other Ingredients:

Annatto Seed: Annatto seeds come from the achiote tree, native to tropical regions from Mexico to Brazil. 

Argan Oil: Moroccan argan oil is sometimes dubbed 'liquid gold'; it is derived from the nut of the Moroccan argan tree and is known to restore softness, strength and shine to hair. Argan oil contains high quantities of vitamin E, containing antioxidants to help boost cells and encourage them to produce healthy hair.

Australian White Clay (Kaolin): Mined in Queensland, this clay is ideal for sensitive scalps. It helps to clean grease from the scalp, leaving hair with added fullness and texture. This clay also helps to anchor some of the more volatile top note fragrances, such as citrus essential oils.

Behentrimonium Methosulfate & Cetearyl Alcohol; aka BTMS25, derived from colza: This is our fantastic conditioning agent. We put it in all of our shampoos too so they can function as a 2-in-1 for girls on the go! This is NOT a sulfate, despite the misleading name. 

Cacao Butter: Cacao/cocoa butter is a rich natural fat derived from the cacao beans within the pods of the cacao tree. It does double duty in our bars; it adds thickness as well as being a great emollient. Strands are moisturised and thus made more manageable, and their strength and resilience is boosted. Cacao butter also pumps up the volume, thickness and shine of your hair; as well as replenishing naturally-occurring oils. Most of our bars use deodorised cacao butter, but we use a raw non-deodorised version in our Mint Chocolate bars to help give a rich earthy chocolate scent.

Cetrimonium Chloride: This is the anti-static active in our conditioners, used to reduce fly-aways and improve the manageability of the hair; it helps with wet and dry comb-ability. It is a good alternative to non-soluble silicones, which can build up on the hair. 

Cetyl Alcohol: This fatty alcohol functions as an emollient, emulsifier and thickener. RSPO sustainable palm based.

Cetearyl Alcohol: This fatty alcohol as an emollient, texture enhancer, foam stabilizer, and carrying agent for other ingredients. RSPO sustainable palm based.

Citric Acid: This is our pH adjuster; which nudges our bars down the pH scale by a fraction to an optimal pH of around 5. The pH of our hair strands is around 3.67 and the scalp is around 5.5, so ideally you want shampoo to be within this range; a cleanser out of this range can leave the cuticles open and prone to damage. 

Coconut Oil: This oil will help your hair grow healthier, thicker, and longer. The vitamins and fatty acids in coconut oil help nourish your scalp and penetrate the cuticle of the hair. They also help to remove sebum build-up from hair follicles, which speeds up growth.

Fragrance oils: We use premium blend guaranteed phthalate-free fragrance oils in a few of our bars; essential oils are fantastic but there are some fragrances you just can’t get from a plant, bark or rind!

Geogard 221 (Ecocert approved): This is our low-tox paraben-free preservative; It is composed of dehydroacetic acid and benzyl alcohol. Extract from manufacturer’s website: “It is a preservative blend designed to replace parabens and paraben containing blends in personal care and cosmetic formulations, offering higher efficacy across the board and substantially better performance in formulations with a lower pH. Provides effective formulation protection from both bacteria and fungi.”

Glycerin (plant origin): this is a humectant; it draws moisture into your hair and provides a barrier to keep this moisture locked in. RSPO sustainable palm based.

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate: This is an emulsifier derived from canola and corn. It is made from a combination of Glycerin (vegetable oil such as corn oil or coconut oil), Stearic Acid (vegetable oil) and citric acid (found in oranges and other citrus fruits). These ingredients come together through a natural process called esterification, which in simple terms is a reaction between fats and acids.

Hydrolysed Oats: This humectant retains moisture to make your hair shiny, reduce breakage, soften and smoothen. It will repair and protect your hair from damage. Being a naturally derived soluble form of oat protein, it’s a clever element that has been utilised since the Roman times for its glorious ability to soothe and heal irritated skin; it can deliver relief from inflammation and/or itchiness caused by scalp conditions.

Lemongrass Essential Oil: This oil is distilled from the leaves and woody stalks of the lemongrass plant. It has a fresh, invigorating and sweet aroma.

Lemon Myrtle Essential Oil: Lemon Myrtle (backhousia citriodora) is an Australian native tree indigenous to the coastal, sub-tropical rainforests of Queensland. Lemon Myrtle is the world's richest known natural source of citral (90 - 98%), and has an exquisite aroma described as a blend of lemongrass, lime and lemon.

Lime Essential Oil: Comes from the rind of fresh natural limes and smells absolutely fantastic. 

Mica: This is a colourant mined from rock. Mica is safe for both humans and animals.

Orange 5 Fold Essential Oil: Pressed from the rind of oranges, this oil has a beautifully zingy, uplifting and refreshing scent; it also exhibits some antimicrobial properties.

Source article: ’Chemical composition and antimicrobial activities of essential oil from the peel of bingtang sweet orange (Citrus sinensis Osbeck)’ https://ifst.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1365-2621.2009.01947.x

Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5): this is the holy grail of hair care ingredients: it behaves as a deep moisturiser and shine improver, as well as adding body to your hair. It penetrates the cuticle of your hair and brings moisture to the cortex, leading to more manageable hair which can better cope with brushing, wind and whatever else life throws at it!

Peppermint Essential Oil: This oil has a strong, fresh scent which gives our Mint Chocolate bar the most enticing aroma, as well as giving your scalp a slight tingle! Peppermint oil is a vasodilator; meaning that it stimulates blood circulation to the skin; which can potentially promote hair growth. It also has antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties.

Sources:

Research Gate: Marković, Dejan & Nikolic, Milos & Glamoclija, Jasmina & Ciric, Ana & Marković, Tatjana & Peric, Tamara & Soković, Marina. (2013). [CHEMICAL COMPOSITION AND ANTIMICROBIAL ACTIVITY OF PEPPERMINT ESSENTIAL OIL (Mentha piperita L.)]. Lekovite sirovine. 33. 63-72. 

https://www.thehairfuel.com/peppermint-oil-hair-growth/

https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/321877#best-essential-oils

Pink Grapefruit Peel Essential Oil: Grapefruit (Citrus x paradisi) is a hybrid that was initially grown in Barbados. It is a cross between sweet orange (Citrus sinensis) and pomelo (Citrus maxima). This fresh, citrusy essential oil exhibits some antimicrobial properties, on top of smelling fantastic. 

Source article: ‘Essential oil composition and antibacterial activity of the grapefruit (Citrus Paradisi. L) peel essential oils obtained by solvent-free microwave extraction: Comparison with hydrodistillation’ https://ifst.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/j.1365-2621.2011.02640.x

Rhassoul Clay (also known as Ghassoul): This truly is THE clay when it comes to haircare; it prevents hair breakage, moisturises, boosts healthy growth and unblocks clogged follicles. It has been used by North African women for hair and skin care for centuries and comes from the Atlas Mountains in Morocco. The name derives from the verb 'rassala', meaning 'to wash' in Arabic. It is a fantastic cleanser and grease remover, as well as giving a slight foaming effect. 

Sources:

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/328313471_Ghassoul_-_Moroccan_clay_with_excellent_adsorption_properties

Research Gate source: Sana, El Fadeli & Mokhtar, Chaik & Pineau, Alain & Lekouch, Nadra & Sedki, Azeddine. (2012). Determination of trace elements in human hair: Optimization of washing procedure with a product of traditional pharmacopeia in Morocco "Rhassoul". Trace Elements and Electrolytes. 29. 22-27. 10.5414/TEX01200. 

 

Shea Butter Oil: Shea butter is a byproduct of shea nuts that are harvested from the Vitellaria paradoxa tree in West Africa, where it has been used for skin and hair since the 14th century. Shea butter contains vitamin A and E with essential fatty acids which are believed to add moisture and shine to the hair. Its non-greasy quality makes it an excellent moisturiser for the hair. It softens dry brittle hair, as well as repairing split damaged ends.

Tocopherol (Vitamin E): This is an antioxidant. Vitamin E may help support a healthy scalp and hair as it has natural antioxidant effects that could assist with maintaining hair growth. The vitamin's antioxidant properties could help reduce the amount of oxidative stress and free radicals that cause the hair follicle cells in a person's scalp to break down.